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The John Lobb factory is a legendary manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that became famous as a shoemaking capital in the 17th century. Although it became part of the Hermes Group in 1976, the factory continues to uphold the methods developed in the 1800s.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. Specifically, leather cutting is still performed by hand rather than with lasers. Instead, plastic templates are produced, which are handed to specialized artisans called clickers. Their title comes from the distinctive “click” of the knife blade hitting the cutting table. With traditional knives, they cut the hides manually.
Production is intentionally small, with only roughly 450 to 500 pairs made each week. This approach resembles bespoke work. Employees often handle many designs in a single day, instead of repeating one routine step like in mass-production plants. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welted technology, allowing the worn sole to be changed without damaging the upper.
Similar to Hermes, John Lobb chooses only the finest leather, particularly from premium French calfskin. Only about sixty percent is usable for uppers, while the remainder becomes supporting details.
The collection combines iconic staples with contemporary tweaks. The City II black Oxfords, for instance, have been given a more elegant outline. The Sennen shoes gained longer straps and a reinforced sole. The Lopez loafers, introduced in 1950, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth trainers and the Levah shoes, which are produced yearly in a mix of colors and materials.
Through its dedication to craftsmanship, John Lobb stands as a defining name in English shoemaking.
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